Eurotrip 2019 - Hiking with dogs in Virpazar, Montenegro
Ah man there is so much to write and it's a little overwhelming. I'll try keep it short and sweet and only write about the things that stick out in my mind, starting with me freaking out about leaving Berat.
As much as I was ready to leave, I was equally comfortable, and the thought of travelling again was freaking me out, which is weird. I think it was mainly because busses in Albania aren't the easiest to work out, and I had foolishly booked my accommodation in Bar already (and booked it for the wrong date, so had already called them up to move it), and so knew I had to make it to Bar by that evening. I don't know why I do this - everywhere I had been, even in the height of season, still had beds free, so I could have done it all on the fly, but the sensible side of me always makes sure I have a bed booked for the night.
Anyways after talking to Miri at the hostel, he had said that I would need to get a bus from the hostel to Berat bus terminal, then get a bus from there to Tirana, then a bus from there across Tirana to the north terminal, then a bus from there to Shkoder, then a bus from there to Ulcinj, then a bus from there to Bar. PHEW. All in one day, assuming that all connections worked out. 6 busses!! And I couldn't find anything online or prebook anything. I was REALLY STRESSING OUT.
But, as luck would have it, I had been chatting to a nice French couple earlier on in the day, and had asked them what their plans were. They said they were driving to Shkoder the following day - lightbulb moment!!! I cheekily asked if I could grab a ride with them, and they were more than happy to take me, and refused any petrol money too - so nice of them!!! This cut out 4 of my 6 busses and saved me a lot of time and money and stress. Just as they dropped me off, the bus to Ulcinj was just about to leave, so I did a quick transfer, and then when I got to Ulcinj, the bus to Bar was also just about to leave, so the timing couldn't have been more perfect. I made it with ages to spare in Bar! All that worry for nothing.
Bar was rubbish - I stayed in a bit of a hippy hostel that had bad beds and squeaky floors, but a very cute rescue kitten. The town was dull and the beach was filthy. Thank goodness I was only there for one evening.
The next morning I got the train to Virpazar, one of my favourite places of the whole trip. Virpazar sits on Lake Skader, the largest lake in Europe. Photos had looked stunning and I was not disappointed. I stayed in a very cute hostel I found on AirBnB (accommodation was quite scarce and hostels virtually non existent) - this was a very small family run hostel, run by a man and his daughter and their 3 very friendly cats - I'm talking 'don't understand personal space' friendly, I was in love!
The first day I took a wander down to the lake and for a little walk before the heavens opened. It was really cool, I sat and watched the lightning fork across the sky over the lake, and the squalls come in, until it was too late and I was caught in a storm. An old dude who didn't speak any English pulled over and gave me a lift back to the town, which I was very grateful for!
The following day me and the rest of the hostel (all 6 of us) got up super early to go on a boat trip on the lake organised by the hostel owner. He had recommended doing it early before all the crowds as it's the most peaceful - it was a great recommendation. Despite being half awake, I really enjoyed it - there was only one other boat on the lake, and the wildlife was amazing - so many birds all just chilling!! We also had a quick swim, and the water was bathwater warm much to my surprise.
After the trip, we arranged to walk to a 'beach' on the lake, about a 2 hour walk away with the other hostel guests. I wanted to do a bit more of an interesting walk than just the road, so Joe and I planned a back route along a trail that we found on maps.me, and arranged to meet the others at the beach.
The walk was very pretty, made all the more special by 2 random doggos following us the entire way - all 22kms! We assumed they were strays and just being friendly, though one of them did have a collar on her. We also assumed at some point they'd get bored and stop following, but nope - they even followed us when we went off the track to climb a little rocky outcrop to get a good view - it was a bit hairy and I cut myself quite badly on the sharp rocks, but the view was worth it!!!
When we finally made it to the beach, we were told off for bringing dogs and refused entry. After pleading with them and explaining that they weren't our dogs and they'd followed us the entire way from the town, they reluctantly let us on the beach on the condition we kept the dogs under control and cleaned up any poop. So we had a nice chill afternoon swimming in the lake (until I saw a snake and got out of there as fast as I could) and playing with the dogs before the long walk back to the town. One of the dogs dropped off and stayed in the town and the other followed us all the way back to the hostel, much to the cats' dismay. Luckily this was the dog that had the collar and a phone number, so I called the owner who laughed and said that she does this all the time, and he'd come pick her up shortly. I was kinda sad to see her go to be honest!!
That night we had a shared dinner and were entertained by JeanLuc and Charlotte, a Lebanese French couple who showed us how to do Lebanese dancing. Even the hostel owner joined in, it was great!
The next day I had an all day bus ride to Sarajevo, which I'll write about in the next blog post!
As much as I was ready to leave, I was equally comfortable, and the thought of travelling again was freaking me out, which is weird. I think it was mainly because busses in Albania aren't the easiest to work out, and I had foolishly booked my accommodation in Bar already (and booked it for the wrong date, so had already called them up to move it), and so knew I had to make it to Bar by that evening. I don't know why I do this - everywhere I had been, even in the height of season, still had beds free, so I could have done it all on the fly, but the sensible side of me always makes sure I have a bed booked for the night.
Anyways after talking to Miri at the hostel, he had said that I would need to get a bus from the hostel to Berat bus terminal, then get a bus from there to Tirana, then a bus from there across Tirana to the north terminal, then a bus from there to Shkoder, then a bus from there to Ulcinj, then a bus from there to Bar. PHEW. All in one day, assuming that all connections worked out. 6 busses!! And I couldn't find anything online or prebook anything. I was REALLY STRESSING OUT.
But, as luck would have it, I had been chatting to a nice French couple earlier on in the day, and had asked them what their plans were. They said they were driving to Shkoder the following day - lightbulb moment!!! I cheekily asked if I could grab a ride with them, and they were more than happy to take me, and refused any petrol money too - so nice of them!!! This cut out 4 of my 6 busses and saved me a lot of time and money and stress. Just as they dropped me off, the bus to Ulcinj was just about to leave, so I did a quick transfer, and then when I got to Ulcinj, the bus to Bar was also just about to leave, so the timing couldn't have been more perfect. I made it with ages to spare in Bar! All that worry for nothing.
Bar was rubbish - I stayed in a bit of a hippy hostel that had bad beds and squeaky floors, but a very cute rescue kitten. The town was dull and the beach was filthy. Thank goodness I was only there for one evening.
 |
| A very small sample of the trash on Bar beach (all this picked up from where I was sat) |
The next morning I got the train to Virpazar, one of my favourite places of the whole trip. Virpazar sits on Lake Skader, the largest lake in Europe. Photos had looked stunning and I was not disappointed. I stayed in a very cute hostel I found on AirBnB (accommodation was quite scarce and hostels virtually non existent) - this was a very small family run hostel, run by a man and his daughter and their 3 very friendly cats - I'm talking 'don't understand personal space' friendly, I was in love!
The first day I took a wander down to the lake and for a little walk before the heavens opened. It was really cool, I sat and watched the lightning fork across the sky over the lake, and the squalls come in, until it was too late and I was caught in a storm. An old dude who didn't speak any English pulled over and gave me a lift back to the town, which I was very grateful for!
The following day me and the rest of the hostel (all 6 of us) got up super early to go on a boat trip on the lake organised by the hostel owner. He had recommended doing it early before all the crowds as it's the most peaceful - it was a great recommendation. Despite being half awake, I really enjoyed it - there was only one other boat on the lake, and the wildlife was amazing - so many birds all just chilling!! We also had a quick swim, and the water was bathwater warm much to my surprise.
After the trip, we arranged to walk to a 'beach' on the lake, about a 2 hour walk away with the other hostel guests. I wanted to do a bit more of an interesting walk than just the road, so Joe and I planned a back route along a trail that we found on maps.me, and arranged to meet the others at the beach.
The walk was very pretty, made all the more special by 2 random doggos following us the entire way - all 22kms! We assumed they were strays and just being friendly, though one of them did have a collar on her. We also assumed at some point they'd get bored and stop following, but nope - they even followed us when we went off the track to climb a little rocky outcrop to get a good view - it was a bit hairy and I cut myself quite badly on the sharp rocks, but the view was worth it!!!
When we finally made it to the beach, we were told off for bringing dogs and refused entry. After pleading with them and explaining that they weren't our dogs and they'd followed us the entire way from the town, they reluctantly let us on the beach on the condition we kept the dogs under control and cleaned up any poop. So we had a nice chill afternoon swimming in the lake (until I saw a snake and got out of there as fast as I could) and playing with the dogs before the long walk back to the town. One of the dogs dropped off and stayed in the town and the other followed us all the way back to the hostel, much to the cats' dismay. Luckily this was the dog that had the collar and a phone number, so I called the owner who laughed and said that she does this all the time, and he'd come pick her up shortly. I was kinda sad to see her go to be honest!!
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| enjoying the beach with new friends and dogs |
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| my poor bloody legs from the hike |
That night we had a shared dinner and were entertained by JeanLuc and Charlotte, a Lebanese French couple who showed us how to do Lebanese dancing. Even the hostel owner joined in, it was great!
The next day I had an all day bus ride to Sarajevo, which I'll write about in the next blog post!
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