NZ: Welly (Take 2) to Napier
Our ferry trip was uneventful though we did spot a pod of
dolphins in the distance, and we headed off to our accommodation via a trip to
the supermarket. Anja had a family
friend connection who’d offered to put us up for 2 nights, which was very kind
of them, especially as Anja had never met either of them! We turned up to dinner being cooked for us
which was an added, unexpected bonus.
Our room even had its own bathroom – bliss!
We spent the following day doing a self-guided ‘highlights’
tour of Wellington – we walked into town through the Botanic Gardens down to
the harbour, spent 2 hours in the Te Papa museum (where this time I actually
stayed and absorbed information from the Gallipoli exhibition – which is really
very good, though did leave me with a huge sense of sadness. It’s easy to forget that whilst your country
is having its own wars, other countries are suffering similar losses. And also crazy to think that NZ, even though
it’s the other side of the world, had to help with the world wars just because
of it being a commonwealth country).
This is why Welly reminds me of Bristol |
the incredible models in the Te Papa Gallipoli exhibit, think I talked about them in my previous Welly post |
Afterwards we picked our mood up with food – we
had a supermarket picnic by the sea, then a stroll through town to Cuba Street,
which is probably the trendiest street in Welly. After that we headed to the Beehive, where we
managed to squeeze onto the last parliamentary tour of the day. This was much more interesting than I
imagined it would be and I am glad they fit us on the tour – we got to see the
parliamentary chamber and where the PM sat.
Personally I think the building leaves a lot to be desired, designed by Sir Basil Spence in 1964, I think it looks a bit like a huge wedding
cake….I didn't even take a photo because it's so ugly.
Cuba St |
Welly dusk on our walk home |
We finished our ‘highlights’ tour with a trip back to the
Botanic Gardens via the Cable Car, then back home where Anja cooked schnitzel
for dinner as a thank you to our guests (I chopped stuff and kept our hosts
entertained by talking non stop). We had a really lovely
evening with lots of interesting conversations about social media, travel,
Europe and the EU. I felt quite
intelligent by the end of the evening. And a bit buzzy with wine.
After abusing the wifi to write blog posts, we bid our
farewells and travelled North to
Masterton, via ‘Rivendell’ – just off the state highway is a forest where they
filmed a lot of the Rivendell LOTR set. We
took a quick walk around the area, discovered I was definitely taller than a
dwarf, and headed back on the road.
See? Definitely taller than a dwarf. Nearly wizard height in face. |
Gorgeous Autumnal colours |
Justine had recommended a place to stay - she had been cycling in the
middle of nowhere when she came across a farmer moving cattle, they got
speaking and he offered her a place to stay.
She’d written him a postcard which we were to deliver and hope they
would also offer us a place to kip…cheeky!
Unfortunately there was no room at the inn, and the farmer
was out, but their son, Hunter, offered to show us round the farm and we fed
the pet pig, sheep and ducks, asked some questions about sheep farms, and
headed on our merry way. Hunter is
moving to London soon so if any of you come across him, be super nice to him as
he’s lovely!
We ended up at a brilliant little campsite in Eketahuna, run
by an old couple where you get your camp spot, unlimited hot showers, free cold
washing machine and a fab little kitchen all for the princely sum of 7$, bloody
bargain. The old lady even apologised
for charging us, bless her. We made the
most delicious risotto (straight from a packet, add hot water!) and chilled out
for the rest of the evening.
The next day we drove 5k south to Pukaka Mount Bruce bird
sanctuary. We had been debating whether
to go to the Zealandia sanctuary in Welly, and had decided against it, but this
was mentioned in the Lonely Planet book as being THE place to go to, so we
coughed up 20 bucks each and headed inside.
It was 20 bucks well spent – we learned loads and were fed some pretty
scary facts, such as so far in NZ the list of known species that are now
extinct includes one bat, 51 birds, 3 frogs, 3 lizards, 1 fish, 4 plant species
and an unknown number of invertebrates.
We are the cause – early settlers bringing in pests such as rats and
possums who eat eggs and fauna that the native mammals ate, chopping down
bushland and forests for settlements and mining, and of course hunting. One bird was hunted to extinction just
because people in the UK thought it fashionable to wear a brooch made of the
birds beak….Urgh humans….
The Tuatara. It's prehistoric! |
Kakariki |
Kakariki |
a baby kiwi!!!! |
The bird song in the sanctuary was pretty incredible,
especially seeing as the sanctuary is completely open bar 9 aviaries hosting
some protected birds. One of the
highlights was seeing a baby Kiwi chick being fed – it was pretty adorable. They also have 2 adult Brown Kiwi (though
confusingly one of the Brown Kiwi is actually white as it has a rare recessive
gene and is the only white kiwi in existence in captivity). Kiwis are weird – called the ‘most
un-bird-like bird’ because they have whiskers, nostrils at the end of their
beak, hair like feather and 2 ovaries. Weird little things – I say little but
they’re actually really quite big, the size of a basket ball!
Our next stop was Cape Kidnappers, via the longest place
name in the world. We are SUCH tourists. This was an hour out of our way just
for a photo opportunity, and the Maori name for this hill is Taumata whakatangi hangakoauau o tamatea turi pukakapiki maunga horo nuku pokai whenua kitanatahu. Locals just call it Taumata Hill…
and for scale... |
At Cape Kidnappers we considered doing the walk to the
gannet colony which I had heard from a friend was well worth doing, but the
tides were at funny times and meant we would have been walking back in the
dark, so instead we drove to Napier.
Napier IS AMAZING. My favourite city, just nudging Oamaru
out of the top spot. An earthquake razed it to the ground in the 1930s, so when
they rebuilt the city they decided on an Art Deco theme. It’s pretty awesome, all the architecture is
art deco, even down to the street lights and road names. I felt like I was in the 1940s. There are some vintage shops so we tried on
some hats – I’d love to go back there one day and attend a vintage ball or something in full fancy dress. We spent the morning wandering around and in
the afternoon started an estuary walk, but we quickly got bored as it was dull
compared to the rest of the walks we have done, and instead lazed on the beach
for an hour, trying to spot Orca and reading books.
Napier port |
I want a kiwi bird! Xxx
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